The Tajikistan did not want to let us go. In Dushanbe, as we pondered which border crossing to Uzbekistan to take, we learned that the one closest to Dushanbe at Tursunz is closed. So we had to drive to the Northern one at Panjakent. There we learned that Panjaket was also closed about two years ago. Next stop was the Bekabad crossing; about 300km, one steep uphill and a few carburetor cleanups away. Of course, Bekabad was open - but not for cars. We traveled a bit farther to the Bustan, where, finally, we crossed the border to Uzbekistan.
From the time we entered Kazakhstan the police considered the foreign travelers to be a source of an easy enhancement of their well-being. Perhaps the most police stops we encountered were in Tajikistan. We marveled at the politeness of the Tajik police - every time they stopped us they wanted to shake hands. After they shook hands with a local driver, they usually smiled and the driver drove on. What a friendly police they have, we thought. That is until I noticed that the local drivers kept a banknote stuck between the third and fourth finger that magically disappeared after the handshake. I wonder what all of these police officers thought about our sincere, yet empty handshakes? But it all changed in Uzbekistan. Although there were some security checkpoints, the police never tried to get any money out of us. Actually, it appeared that the police was treating the foreigners better than the locals. Apparently, Uzbekistan wants to bring tourists in and after an incident where police tried to get money from a tourist bus a while ago, the incident got the attention of the local government, and all the policemen involved were fired. Given that a local worker earns about $100 a month, while the policeman earns three times as much, the police behavior changed dramatically.
So, these were the dog days of summer for us. Hot sunny days of late July (usually between 35 and 40 degrees of Celsius), no significant problems with the car (except for a broken bolt on the rear control arm and some other small stuff), no problems with the police, easy roads and nice hotels and B&Bs. Just your regular family vacation. We went to Samarkand first, saw the beauty of the local madrasas and mosques and the "Pearl of the Central Asia" - the Registon Square and Park. We were now a bit in a hurry, as we did not know the condition of the road through the Karakum desert. We then drove to Bukhara and saw the local remnants of the 14th-15th century there. And on we raced to Khiva across the new beautiful road crossing the Karakum desert.
As you can expect, when traveling in our style, we always came either too early or too late. This time we were too early; not only the conditions of the roads were way better than expected, but the expedition's accountant also miscalculated the Turkmenistan visa by two days. Which was probably good. We could spend our time in the old town of Khiva, rest a bit and make a side trip to the Aral Sea. And, of course, finally write a bit before we forget it all. You see, sometimes you can really, really enjoy the dog days of summer.
From the time we entered Kazakhstan the police considered the foreign travelers to be a source of an easy enhancement of their well-being. Perhaps the most police stops we encountered were in Tajikistan. We marveled at the politeness of the Tajik police - every time they stopped us they wanted to shake hands. After they shook hands with a local driver, they usually smiled and the driver drove on. What a friendly police they have, we thought. That is until I noticed that the local drivers kept a banknote stuck between the third and fourth finger that magically disappeared after the handshake. I wonder what all of these police officers thought about our sincere, yet empty handshakes? But it all changed in Uzbekistan. Although there were some security checkpoints, the police never tried to get any money out of us. Actually, it appeared that the police was treating the foreigners better than the locals. Apparently, Uzbekistan wants to bring tourists in and after an incident where police tried to get money from a tourist bus a while ago, the incident got the attention of the local government, and all the policemen involved were fired. Given that a local worker earns about $100 a month, while the policeman earns three times as much, the police behavior changed dramatically.
So, these were the dog days of summer for us. Hot sunny days of late July (usually between 35 and 40 degrees of Celsius), no significant problems with the car (except for a broken bolt on the rear control arm and some other small stuff), no problems with the police, easy roads and nice hotels and B&Bs. Just your regular family vacation. We went to Samarkand first, saw the beauty of the local madrasas and mosques and the "Pearl of the Central Asia" - the Registon Square and Park. We were now a bit in a hurry, as we did not know the condition of the road through the Karakum desert. We then drove to Bukhara and saw the local remnants of the 14th-15th century there. And on we raced to Khiva across the new beautiful road crossing the Karakum desert.
As you can expect, when traveling in our style, we always came either too early or too late. This time we were too early; not only the conditions of the roads were way better than expected, but the expedition's accountant also miscalculated the Turkmenistan visa by two days. Which was probably good. We could spend our time in the old town of Khiva, rest a bit and make a side trip to the Aral Sea. And, of course, finally write a bit before we forget it all. You see, sometimes you can really, really enjoy the dog days of summer.